This page was updated on April 25, 2021
Don't people realize that a scale model operating without a figure or crew that would normally be seen
is just weird? How many times do you see a powerboat running around without anyone on board? Yes, it has happened in real life,
but the boat usually goes around in a circle or goes to it crashes or runs out of fuel. But for a model that is navigating, no, unless you believe in the
invisible man or woman!
Same with other vessels. Get a crew on board for adding some "realness" and if gives the viewer a sense of proportions. (I could post some photos here, but I think you get the picture!)
Same with other vessels. Get a crew on board for adding some "realness" and if gives the viewer a sense of proportions. (I could post some photos here, but I think you get the picture!)
Forward
A common question for new hobbyists to scale model boats (and likely other scale model
hobbies) is: Where can I find a figure for my model boat?
There are a variety of sources out there for figures of different scales (pre-made, molded kit figures, 3D printed, figurines made for other purposes). These can come in a variety of material's, plastics, metal, etc.
Sometimes you might not find the exact scale you need, but you might find something close enough. The other aspect of the figure is what does it look like (type of clothing, facial hair, etc.) The third thing is what position is needed (sitting, standing, performing a job).
Before starting your search look at what other people have, club members, internet and magazine photos, videos, etc. This may help in determining what kind of figure you want, how to pose it, how many, and if you are lucky a source for the figure.
There are a variety of sources out there for figures of different scales (pre-made, molded kit figures, 3D printed, figurines made for other purposes). These can come in a variety of material's, plastics, metal, etc.
Sometimes you might not find the exact scale you need, but you might find something close enough. The other aspect of the figure is what does it look like (type of clothing, facial hair, etc.) The third thing is what position is needed (sitting, standing, performing a job).
Before starting your search look at what other people have, club members, internet and magazine photos, videos, etc. This may help in determining what kind of figure you want, how to pose it, how many, and if you are lucky a source for the figure.
Some examples as to what I did (link):
[ Lew's Figures ]
\So below I hope to cover enough to help you get started on a search as well as a bunch of tips.
\So below I hope to cover enough to help you get started on a search as well as a bunch of tips.Below you will find (select):
- What Scale do you Need?
- Searching for a Specific Scale
- Data (common scales)
- 3D Printed Figure
- Modifying a Figure
- "How To" Example using Bruder figures (seen in photo, right)
- What Scale do you Need?
- Searching for a Specific Scale
- Data (common scales)
- 3D Printed Figure
- Modifying a Figure
- "How To" Example using Bruder figures (seen in photo, right)
If you are building a kit the instructions or box should have the scale listed. Same
if you are scratch building from a plan. If you re scratch building by taking information from photos you will need to figure out
what the scale is by using objects in the photos (people, doors, etc.) and relate that to your particular size you are building to come up with a scale.
Searching for a Specific Scale
Using
some of the suggestions above you can see how was able to make (by modifying the Bruder) figures for my Springer tug as shown in the photo at the right.
I started out with the Bruder #60020 action figures. (Bruder makes a variety of "toys" that are actually not too bad as far as scale.) Various joints make the figure pose-able.
Both of the figures (right) are 60020's. By posing the various joints and some paint you can make several figures to create a crew. Freeze the joints with super-glue after posing, then add and sand filler. This may take several coats. (Sand joints to aid in filler adhesion.)
Fortunately the vests that were supposed to be for road or construction safety were thick making it easy to transform them into flotation vests. I painted on some narrow stripes under the arms to make the front to rear connections.
The first step was to verify thescale. The figure measures 4.25 inches from the bottom of the shoe to the top of the hat. A six foot man is 72 inches tall and add 1 inch for the shoe and 2 inches for the helmet the total is 75 inches. Divide that by the figure height (4.25) and you get a scale of 1/17.6 - close to 1/18 scale but usable for 1/16 to 1/20 scales because of variances in men height.
To make the sidetical figures look different you can use paint, filler (to build up features), carve/sand/cut (to tone down features and add creases in clothing), etc. The Bruder figure soes not have gloves but I painted them on the Springer's figures. (If you are really good at painting, try making a flannel shirt.)
Once you have your scale in hand (and the style of the figure - see below) you will begin your search. Unfortunately, in model
boating there are many scales and to a builder's disgust too many - there is no standard. For example what sense is it to have one
make have a model at 1/39 scale and another at 1/140 scale? Even more common is 1/144 and 1/150 scales (usually in war ships)!
Solving one scale and style problem: Well, lets see what we can find. I have a 1/40 scale post-WWII German fast patrol boat that is 1/40 scale. Could not find any 1/40 scale figures for the model. Closest is scale 1/35 and there are an abundance of figures, especially military, in that scale. I solved this problem by finding figures in this scale with a close match in clothing. By calculating the difference in 1/35 versus 1/40 scales I figured that a saw cut and filing mid-body (beltline) and cementing top to bottom I reduced the height enough to make it scale. Repainting the figure to match real photos was next. Problem solved.
Solving one scale and style problem: Well, lets see what we can find. I have a 1/40 scale post-WWII German fast patrol boat that is 1/40 scale. Could not find any 1/40 scale figures for the model. Closest is scale 1/35 and there are an abundance of figures, especially military, in that scale. I solved this problem by finding figures in this scale with a close match in clothing. By calculating the difference in 1/35 versus 1/40 scales I figured that a saw cut and filing mid-body (beltline) and cementing top to bottom I reduced the height enough to make it scale. Repainting the figure to match real photos was next. Problem solved.
Consider some of the already available common scales (below). Something close enough* may work out well.
1/6 scale -Barbie (too skinny, might need to bulk up), Not many model boat in this scale.
1/12 scale - Star Wars and other action figures. Some model boat in this scale.
1/16 scale - Figures used with WWII and some modern military model, like RC tanks.
1/18 scale - some toy action figures that could be modified.
1/20 scale - some years back Tamiya made figure fore race cars and pit crew. Some still around.
1/25 scale (1/24, 1/24.5) - "G" scale - plenty some but look out for the stubby look.
1/32 scale - (3/8 to a foot) a fair selection out there.
1/35 scale - a big selection
1/48 scale - "O" scale in the model RR hobby, a fair selection. Might even be some in boat figures.
1/87 scale - "HO" scale in the model RR hobby - pretty good selection.
1/160scale - "N" scale in the model RR hobby - good selection.
1/220 scale - "Z" scale in the model RR hobby - fair good selection.
Check some of the model boat manufacturers, distributors, and stores. They might have some specific for certain models.
*What is close enough? Suppose you have a boat that is 1/50 scale. Where would you first look? How about that 1/48 scale. Most of the scale can be calculated on an average male height of 6 foot (72 inches, 183cm or 1.83m). A six foot figure in 50 scale is 1.44 inches tall. In 148 scale it is 1.50 inches. The difference is only .06 (1/16) inch.
1/6 scale -Barbie (too skinny, might need to bulk up), Not many model boat in this scale.
1/12 scale - Star Wars and other action figures. Some model boat in this scale.
1/16 scale - Figures used with WWII and some modern military model, like RC tanks.
1/18 scale - some toy action figures that could be modified.
1/20 scale - some years back Tamiya made figure fore race cars and pit crew. Some still around.
1/25 scale (1/24, 1/24.5) - "G" scale - plenty some but look out for the stubby look.
1/32 scale - (3/8 to a foot) a fair selection out there.
1/35 scale - a big selection
1/48 scale - "O" scale in the model RR hobby, a fair selection. Might even be some in boat figures.
1/87 scale - "HO" scale in the model RR hobby - pretty good selection.
1/160scale - "N" scale in the model RR hobby - good selection.
1/220 scale - "Z" scale in the model RR hobby - fair good selection.
Check some of the model boat manufacturers, distributors, and stores. They might have some specific for certain models.
*What is close enough? Suppose you have a boat that is 1/50 scale. Where would you first look? How about that 1/48 scale. Most of the scale can be calculated on an average male height of 6 foot (72 inches, 183cm or 1.83m). A six foot figure in 50 scale is 1.44 inches tall. In 148 scale it is 1.50 inches. The difference is only .06 (1/16) inch.
New(er) to the hobby is 3D printing. This could be accomplished several ways, buy
the model from a 3D printing service, buy the model from a seller that has a 3D printer, and buy the files and print the figure(s) yourself.
Buying the 3D printed model:
There are some suppliers that use high end printers and can sell items through their stores. Shapeways is one of them. Pros: Fair selection, scales can usually be customized if you see a specific figure in their store. Cons: Resolution (finish) usually not as good as injection molded plastic or resin.
There are other suppliers (some found on eBay or Google search) that are small time businesses and use lower end resin or FDM (filament) printers. Pros: scales can usually be customized if you see a specific figure you like that they have. Cons: Noticeably less quality (finish) than injection molded plastic or resin.
Buying the 3D model file and printing it yourself.
If you got to this point you already have a 3D printer and know the pros and cons of doing this. If you don't know anything about 3D modeling and printing, that is a whole subject in itself which I will not go into here.
Buying the 3D printed model:
There are some suppliers that use high end printers and can sell items through their stores. Shapeways is one of them. Pros: Fair selection, scales can usually be customized if you see a specific figure in their store. Cons: Resolution (finish) usually not as good as injection molded plastic or resin.
There are other suppliers (some found on eBay or Google search) that are small time businesses and use lower end resin or FDM (filament) printers. Pros: scales can usually be customized if you see a specific figure you like that they have. Cons: Noticeably less quality (finish) than injection molded plastic or resin.
Buying the 3D model file and printing it yourself.
If you got to this point you already have a 3D printer and know the pros and cons of doing this. If you don't know anything about 3D modeling and printing, that is a whole subject in itself which I will not go into here.
The smaller the figure the harder it is to modify (obviously). If you find a figure close to the scale you want
you should try to find one that looks close as well.
If you find a figure that has joints (like many action figures) you can position the figure and freeze the joints with super glue or epoxy.
Cut and re-cement arms (shoulder, elbow, wrist) and legs to get a specific position. A cut across the belt line and a twist and cement will give the torso a twist. Same with the head. (You can also slant the neck for a head up or down position.)
You can also build up a body by adding material like a hobby putty (I use Tamiya with a good success rate). Build the part up, let it dry then sand or file to size. Sometimes you might have to do this again due to putty shrinkage when it dries.
Removing material - you can use a rotary tool (like Dremel) hobby knives, files, sandpaper, etc., to shape your part. This is often done in conjunction with using a filler (above) to achieve you figure's shape.
Painting your figure. I prefer to use enamels but occasionally use acrylics. Often missed it he use of a dull or matte finish. I've see too many glossy figures. Even after using flat pains I almost always use a couple of quick, light coats of Testor's DullCoat.
Don't use a base! I've seen figures standing on a deck and they are standing on a small mound of something (dirt?). If you need to do something use a "board" or crate - anything but a mound. For permanent use try drilling a small hole in the feet up into the leg and inserting a wire. Then drill holes in your deck and insert the let-pins into the holes with a little cement. If your figures are large enough you might be able to get some small super magnets and place a thin piece of steel (tin food cans are good) cemented to and painted to match the deck.
If you find a figure that has joints (like many action figures) you can position the figure and freeze the joints with super glue or epoxy.
Cut and re-cement arms (shoulder, elbow, wrist) and legs to get a specific position. A cut across the belt line and a twist and cement will give the torso a twist. Same with the head. (You can also slant the neck for a head up or down position.)
You can also build up a body by adding material like a hobby putty (I use Tamiya with a good success rate). Build the part up, let it dry then sand or file to size. Sometimes you might have to do this again due to putty shrinkage when it dries.
Removing material - you can use a rotary tool (like Dremel) hobby knives, files, sandpaper, etc., to shape your part. This is often done in conjunction with using a filler (above) to achieve you figure's shape.
Painting your figure. I prefer to use enamels but occasionally use acrylics. Often missed it he use of a dull or matte finish. I've see too many glossy figures. Even after using flat pains I almost always use a couple of quick, light coats of Testor's DullCoat.
Don't use a base! I've seen figures standing on a deck and they are standing on a small mound of something (dirt?). If you need to do something use a "board" or crate - anything but a mound. For permanent use try drilling a small hole in the feet up into the leg and inserting a wire. Then drill holes in your deck and insert the let-pins into the holes with a little cement. If your figures are large enough you might be able to get some small super magnets and place a thin piece of steel (tin food cans are good) cemented to and painted to match the deck.
Using
some of the suggestions above you can see how was able to make (by modifying the Bruder) figures for my Springer tug as shown in the photo at the right.I started out with the Bruder #60020 action figures. (Bruder makes a variety of "toys" that are actually not too bad as far as scale.) Various joints make the figure pose-able.
Both of the figures (right) are 60020's. By posing the various joints and some paint you can make several figures to create a crew. Freeze the joints with super-glue after posing, then add and sand filler. This may take several coats. (Sand joints to aid in filler adhesion.)
Fortunately the vests that were supposed to be for road or construction safety were thick making it easy to transform them into flotation vests. I painted on some narrow stripes under the arms to make the front to rear connections.
The first step was to verify thescale. The figure measures 4.25 inches from the bottom of the shoe to the top of the hat. A six foot man is 72 inches tall and add 1 inch for the shoe and 2 inches for the helmet the total is 75 inches. Divide that by the figure height (4.25) and you get a scale of 1/17.6 - close to 1/18 scale but usable for 1/16 to 1/20 scales because of variances in men height.
To make the sidetical figures look different you can use paint, filler (to build up features), carve/sand/cut (to tone down features and add creases in clothing), etc. The Bruder figure soes not have gloves but I painted them on the Springer's figures. (If you are really good at painting, try making a flannel shirt.)